Intro
This guide is for pre-1994 E-Z-GO Marathon electric carts. You’ll confirm the Crowfoot charging receptacle, pick a compatible 36V smart charger, and avoid common mix-ups with newer connectors. We also cover lithium-conversion basics, wiring/safety tips, and a quick troubleshooting checklist.
Quick Specs
- Model covered: E-Z-GO Marathon (electric), pre-1994
- System voltage: 36V
- OEM port: Crowfoot two-blade receptacle
- Typical charger output: 12–15A smart charger (up to 18A with healthy cables/batteries)
- Chemistry supported: Lead-acid by default; LiFePO₄ with a lithium profile charger
- Common upgrades: New Crowfoot receptacle, Crowfoot ↔ Anderson/SB50 adapter for shop/fleet use
How to Identify Your Charging Port
- Shape: Two flat blades arranged in a shallow “V”.
- Keying: The blades and shell are not symmetrical—match orientation before insertion.
- Location: Typically on the front cowl or side panel.
- Look-alikes to avoid:
- PowerWise D-plug (TXT 36V; a “D”-shaped two-slot, not two blades).
- Triangle 3-pin (TXT48/RXV 48V).
- Round 3-pin (Club Car) or 3-pin clover (Yamaha).
Recommended Chargers (Replacement & Upgrade)
Match both the plug type (Crowfoot) and voltage (36V). For lithium conversions, use a LiFePO₄ profile and follow your BMS limits.
A) Standard Replacement (Lead-Acid)
- 36V / 12–15A smart charger with auto start/stop and temperature/voltage protections.
CTA: 36V Crowfoot Smart Charger (12–15A)
B) Faster Turnaround (Check Cables/Heat)
- 36V / 18A smart charger can shorten charge time; use only with healthy batteries and proper-gauge cables; monitor connector temperature.
CTA: 36V 18A Crowfoot Charger
C) Lithium Conversions (LiFePO₄)
- 36V LiFePO₄ profile (no equalization), end voltage per pack/BMS. Clearly label the charger as lithium.
CTA: 36V LiFePO₄ Crowfoot Charger
D) Receptacle & Adapter Options
- Crowfoot receptacle kit (housing, terminals, gasket).
- Optional Crowfoot ↔ Anderson/SB50 adapter for workshop quick-connects.
CTA: Crowfoot Receptacle Replacement Kit
Wiring & Safety Notes
- Polarity matters: Crowfoot blades can be miswired by past repairs—verify polarity with a meter before connecting a new charger.
- Contacts: Heat-darkened blades or loose lugs increase resistance—replace worn parts.
- Cable & fuse: Use specified wire gauge and correct inline fuse; avoid undersized extension cords.
- Ventilation: Charge on a dry, ventilated surface; don’t cover the charger.
- Lithium caution: Do not use lead-acid equalization on lithium packs.
Troubleshooting Checklist
- Charger won’t start
- Pack voltage below start threshold → pre-charge cells to nominal.
- Corroded/loose Crowfoot blades or cracked housing → clean/replace.
- AC outlet/fuse issue → verify input power.
- Charging stops early
- High internal resistance / weak battery → load test & balance.
- Thermal/voltage protection triggered → improve ventilation; check pack health.
- Intermittent or hot connector
- Worn receptacle contacts → replace receptacle.
- Broken strain relief or frayed cable → replace cord/plug assembly.
FAQ
Q1: What plug does the pre-1994 Marathon use?
A: The Crowfoot two-blade charging receptacle.
Q2: Is the Marathon always 36V?
A: Pre-1994 electric Marathon carts are typically 36V. Confirm by pack label or battery count.
Q3: Can I use a D-plug or triangle 3-pin charger?
A: No. Plug geometry and voltage must match. Use a 36V Crowfoot charger.
Q4: Can I fast-charge my Marathon?
A: 12–15A is typical; 18A is possible with healthy batteries/cables—monitor heat and follow manufacturer guidance.
Q5: I converted to lithium—what charger should I use?
A: A 36V LiFePO₄ charger with the correct charge curve and end voltage per your BMS. No lead-acid equalization.
Q6: Can I replace the Crowfoot receptacle myself?
A: Yes, with basic tools (crimper, meter, heat-shrink). Disconnect the pack, verify polarity, and follow torque/specs.
