why is my golf cart not charging

 The most common cause is poor contact between the charger and the vehicle/battery (loose/oxidized plug, cable or socket), which results in unstable charging current transmission.

Check in order from easiest to hardest (8 steps in total)

Step 1

• Symptom: No power in the household socket or extension cord / charger light not turning on.
• Possible causes: power failure in the wall socket, damage to the extension cord, or tripping of the residual current device (RCD).
• Solutions: Replace with a confirmed power outlet; plug the charger directly into a nearby wall outlet; check and reset the circuit breaker or residual current device (RCD).
• Precautions: Avoid using poor-quality extension cords for extended periods; do not touch bare wires when operating on live wires.

Step 2

• Symptom: The charger indicator light does not respond or displays an incorrect color/flickers.
• Possible causes: The charger is not receiving AC power, its internal self-test has failed, or it is already faulty.
• Solution: Confirm that there is power on the AC side, and then observe the indicator light meanings in the manufacturer’s manual; if there is still no response after plugging it into other known working sockets, consider replacing the charger or sending it for testing.
• Precautions: Read the indicator light codes according to the instruction manual, as the meanings of the codes may vary depending on the brand; do not blindly tap the charger to “reset” it.

Step 3

• Phenomenon: When the charger is plugged in, the plug on the vehicle end has unstable contact and the contact surface has black or green oxidation.
• Possible causes: poor contact in the plug/socket, pin oxidation, or damage to the locking mechanism.
• Solution: After disconnecting the power, unplug the plug, clean the pins (with alcohol or a special contact cleaner), check for bent or damaged pins, and reinsert it securely; replace the plug/extension cord if necessary.
• Precautions: Always disconnect the power before cleaning; do not scratch the pins with rough tools such as wire brushes; after installation, perform a pull test to confirm that it is secure.

Step 4

• Symptom: The circuit breaker trips or the fuse blows instantly after the charger is connected, or the fuse inside the vehicle blows.
• Possible causes: charger short circuit, cable internal conductor short circuit, vehicle fuse/circuit breaker malfunction (overcurrent or short circuit protection).
• Solution: Check and replace the vehicle fuse or circuit breaker (make sure they are the same specifications); check the charger cable for wear, water ingress, or exposed short circuits; if necessary, have a professional repairman test for leaks.
• Precautions: Use the same specification and model when replacing fuses; if a fuse blows repeatedly, do not continue to replace it, stop using it and investigate the root cause.

Step 5

• Symptom: The charger shows that it is charging, but the battery voltage rises very slowly or stops charging very quickly, and the battery life is not improved.
• Possible causes: unbalanced battery pack voltage, battery aging (capacity decay), or poor contact between batteries.
• Solution: Check the terminal voltage of each battery or battery module (measure each module with a multimeter); clean and tighten the connections/connections between batteries; for lead-acid batteries, check the electrolyte level and add distilled water (if applicable).
• Precautions: Follow safe operating procedures when measuring voltage; add water to lead-acid batteries only after charging and cooling; battery aging requires professional evaluation to determine if replacement is necessary.

Step 6

• Symptom: The charger is working properly, but the charging process is interrupted or the battery does not reach full charge; the charger displays a BMS/error code.
• Possible causes: BMS protection triggered (overvoltage/undervoltage/overcurrent/insulation detection/communication failure) or voltage mismatch (the charger’s nominal output voltage is inconsistent with the battery pack).
• Solution: Refer to the vehicle and charger manuals to check the meaning of the error codes; confirm that the charger output voltage is fully matched with the battery’s nominal voltage; if it is BMS protection, first check for imbalance of individual battery cell voltages or loose communication lines, and if necessary, use diagnostic equipment to read the BMS log.
• Precautions: Do not use a charger with the wrong voltage to “make do” with charging (it will damage the BMS or battery); be careful when resetting the BMS and clearing data, and prioritize troubleshooting.

Step 7

• Phenomenon: Charging fails or charging efficiency is extremely low in low temperature environments (more noticeable in winter).
• Possible cause: The charger or battery has triggered low temperature protection (some chargers/BMS disable or limit charging when the temperature is below a set level).
• Solution: Move the vehicle to a warm environment within the recommended temperature range before charging; if you frequently encounter low temperature issues, consider a charging solution with temperature compensation or heating, or install a charger with a temperature sensor.
• Precautions: Do not use open flames or extreme heating methods to “rapidly heat up” the battery; prolonged low temperature environments will accelerate battery aging, so pay more attention to maintenance in winter.

Step 8

• Symptom: The device still cannot charge after the above checks. The charger has power on the AC side but the DC output is abnormal (or there is fan noise/burning smell).
• Possible causes: damage to internal components of the charger (power board, rectifier, relay), malfunction of temperature control, or communication failure between the charger and the BMS.
• Solution: Use a multimeter to test the DC output of the charger. If there is no output or the output is abnormal, stop using it and send it for professional repair or replacement. If it is under warranty, contact the manufacturer’s after-sales service.
• Precautions: Internal repairs must be performed by qualified electrical repair personnel and with appropriate safety measures in place; if there is a burning smell or smoke, disconnect the power supply to prevent fire.

When should the charger be replaced?

• Despite confirming that there is power on the AC side, the charger repeatedly showed no DC output or unstable output voltage/current.
• The charger emits a burning smell and smoke, has obviously damaged parts, or the fan/heat dissipation is severely malfunctioning.
• After professional testing (or manufacturer diagnosis), it was confirmed that the charger’s key electronic modules were damaged, the repair cost was close to or exceeded the replacement cost, and the charger had exceeded its reasonable service life (commonly 5-8 years, depending on the frequency of use and environment).

Here are three recommended criteria for choosing a charger: 1) Precise voltage and battery chemistry/number of cells: The charger’s output voltage must match the battery’s nominal voltage (e.g., 48V, 72V) and support your battery’s chemistry type (lead-acid, lithium-ion) to avoid triggering the BMS or damaging the battery. 2) Charging current compatible with battery capacity: The charger’s rated current (A) should match the battery capacity (Ah). A common choice is the C/6 to C/2 range (e.g., for a 200Ah battery, approximately 33A to 100A), ensuring reasonable charging time without overheating. 3) Safety certification and BMS/temperature protection compatibility: Models with CE/UL certifications, overvoltage/overcurrent/short circuit/temperature protection, and BMS communication compatibility are preferred, along with clear warranty and after-sales support.

If you’d like, I can help you with more specific troubleshooting steps or recommend a few compatible chargers based on your golf cart model (battery type, voltage, charger model).